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今天,Nicole Farhi的发布应着一道沉闷的声音拉开了帷幕。一组黄白色相拼,精心裁剪的夏装一一映入眼帘。若是放到摄影师Slim Aaron的古老照片中,也不会显得不合时宜。它们已经十分精致,不过,更精彩的还在后头。Farhi喜欢挑战自我。这一季,她已然成竹在胸,一款全身装点着闪光饰片的大网眼无袖上衣便印证了这一点。随后展出的是细网眼面料,上面印有花朵拥簇的图案,或者堆叠着彩色的织物,让花朵呈现出一种立体感。一条浅绿色男式切边裤和一件紫红色无袖上衣也采用了这种网眼面料。远远看去,只见它们绰约的风姿;然而及至眼前,却呈现出一种若隐若现的感觉,颇有几分奇特。这种效果像是模仿画家 Georges Seurat 创作的点彩油画,它会在你转换视角之间,时而显现在你的眼前,时而又消失于无形。
Farhi在发布后提到,这一季的灵感来自园林。凭着3-D 装饰、服装结构及印花工艺,她对这种灵感进行了诠释。走秀结束之际,一组纯白色服装鱼贯而出,均采用激光裁剪的皮革图案;另一款时尚的锌黄色直筒连衣裙上,拼贴着盛开的塑料花朵。此外,她还用撑条在褶裥短裙上塑造出花瓣的形状;而另一些简约的连衣裙上,则采用雕刻工艺实现同样的效果。本次发布中,衣着的色调也颇有一番风味:与独特的绘彩印花相依而存的,是Farhi调出的大红色、粉色、桃红色和橙色相融的色彩大拼盘,溢满浓浓的甜美情调。不过,各种艺术的元素,利落的线条,动感的格调,均对这种浓烈的甜美感进行了调和。纵观整场发布,可以说 Farhi为我们演绎了一场蕴含时尚之风的盛宴。
When she took over at McQueen last year, Sarah Burton quietly promised that she’d try to bring a new sense of softness and female-minded wearability to the collection and, despite being just a tad busy these past couple months, she’s already delivering. The spotlight trained on Burton now is relentless. Even a resort collection, which might formerly have slipped by without much comment, is now the subject of immense interest, especially as it’s likely to contain semi-hidden, non-runway gems that might be picked out by the likes of, say, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, or Michelle Obama for tours, day events, photo-calls, state dinners, and the like.Any surface reading of resort is proof that Burton is already brilliant at interpreting clothes for all these modern calibrations of formality. The current collection—built around the centrifugal idea of romantic utility—contains everything from signature McQueen tailored pants and high-necked white blouses to graceful mid-length skirts with a luxurious ruffled hem before going all the way through to embassy-ready gold-embellished suits and ball-worthy fantasias made out of fairy-fingered embroidery on tulle.Part of her genius is the way she’s staying completely faithful to the McQueen templates while also easing the silhouette to present it at its most flattering. Two spectacular dresses with trains—one with white lace, inspired by shells, on pink, and the other with gold bullion cornfield-and-flower embroidery set against nude tulle—are cut to the body and beautifully slim from the torso to thigh before trailing out into layered skirts. The raised waists of the coats, jackets, and day-dresses, all cinched with wide-strapped leather belts, are similarly calculated to strike a great proportion. Add the elongating new length, with its swanky, swishing movement, and you have something that exudes a grown-up, modern presence without any hint of stiffness or fashion-for fashion's-sake.Close-up, too, this collection only gets more desirable. Burton’s smart ***ysis of how to break beautiful fashion into wearable parts has lead her to make a fantastic white ribbon dress (which surely has Middleton’s name on it), but also to offer a pencil skirt and a gorgeous peplum jacket as accessible variants. As for Burton working away in her studio in Clerkenwell? She shows every sign of handling the pressure with the serenity that allowed her to get through the royal wedding with such aplomb and privacy and, even better, the sparkle in her eye says she’s enjoying every minute of it.当她在麦昆超过去年,莎拉伯顿悄悄地答应,她试图把一个新的柔软性和女性的头脑耐磨性集合感,尽管只是一点点忙,这些过去的几个月,她已经提供。现在聚光灯伯顿训练是无情的。即使是一个度假的集合,这可能以前有下滑没有多少评论通过,是现在兴趣盎然的主题,尤其是因为,这可能包含半隐,非,跑道,可能会被挑选的,喜欢出宝石,说 ,凯瑟琳剑桥公爵夫人,米歇尔对奥巴马之旅,一天的活动,照片,电话,国宴,并喜欢。任何诉诸表面读数证明伯顿已经在解释所有这些形式上的现代校准的衣服辉煌。目前收集的浪漫的实用程序包含签名麦昆量身打造一个豪华竖起下摆裤和高领的白色上衣,以优美的中等长度的裙,之前所有的方式通过***,准备黄金的点缀一切离心想法围绕西装和仙女指薄纱刺绣出的球值得fantasias 。,她天才的一部分,是她下榻的同时,也缓解人影,目前在其最拍马屁的完全忠实于麦昆模板的方式。两个壮观的礼服白色蕾丝列车,由贝壳灵感,以粉红色,并与其他金条玉米田和花朵刺绣对裸鼠薄纱被切断对身体和漂亮苗条的躯干前尾随到大腿进入分层裙子。同样计算所提出的大衣,夹克衫,和日间礼服,所有与宽短缺皮带cinched,腰部取得很大的比重 。添加新的长度拉长,其时髦,嗖嗖的运动,你有东西,散发着一个长大了,现代的存在没有任何一丝僵硬或为时尚fashion's 为了特写,太,这个集合只得到更多的可取的。伯顿如何打入耐磨部件时尚靓丽的智能分析,导致她做出一个梦幻般的白色缎带礼服(这肯定对米德尔顿的名字),而且还提供铅笔裙和华丽的peplum外套作为访问的变种。在她的工作室工作,对伯顿中的Clerkenwell?她显示每一个处理的宁静,让她获得通过的挥洒自如和隐私的王室婚礼,甚至更好的压力迹象,闪耀在她的眼睛说,她享受着每一分钟。
你从来没有真正降落在米兰,直到Gucci秀,米兰时装周。 Frida Giannini则在七十浪漫的下一个冬天的情绪。 “我喜欢夸张的方式,每个人都似乎在70年代。。。。。。。。。“
多莉 - 琼斯 展后说:”卡尔加里Avansino“这看起来是一个真正的敬意。” 还有超热美艳,这是一个更容易的古奇 - 裁剪羊毛peacoats穿在鼓鼓的马球脖子和细羊毛的喇叭裤,而绿色麂皮衬衫连衣裙platformed皮革过膝高筒靴与合作。 调色板丰富,孔雀蓝和铁锈,勃艮第和汽油的绿色令人心醉的组合 - 所有最高质量的鼓鼓的皮草,在对比智能定制羊毛裙套装的脖子周围的宝石颜色的披肩,最好的温暖,最柔软的薄皮革(适合和耀斑更多的喇叭裤,穿大衣),和华丽的针织连衣裙。 绿色和紫色宽边trilbies日装上的重视,也选择了黑色和白色的雪纺点或支票打印,然后选择一个令人难以置信的精心剪裁的灰色羊毛办公室穿着毛茸茸的羊皮束带外套。 但是,尽管的Gucci女人转折点量身定制的裙裤,natty中束带夹克和皮革礼服(乔丹唐恩看着一个明亮的红色雪纺版本特别大),她的仍然渴望成为众人瞩目的- 漆皮,蛇皮面料的每个模型背后的巨大鞭打标志的铅笔裙和薄纱礼服,分割到腰部炫耀匹配hotpants。 在对比色的花瓣窒息的雪纺连身裙的结局,她显示了脆弱的一面,是一个浪漫的一个值得欢迎的柔软女人。