图形的运动

春天2012年RTW


Jason Wu吴季刚



照片：Marcio马德拉


by Mark Holgate

Over the summer in London, girls were spotted in the city’s hip new uniform, and not just in the newly cool enclave of once hardscrabble Dalston, but just as much in never-had-it-tough Mayfair. It was a look comprised of neat tailored shorts, ladylike structured shoulder purses, and heavy lace-up flat combat boots. (Listen, this is a London summer we’re talking about, remember?) Jason Wu, the princeling purveyor of sheath dresses that are very precise in their uptown New York urbanity, would, you’d think, be a million miles away from registering this impulse to look both super-dressed-up, then take it way, way down, but clearly he has, and to his benefit. His spring 2012 runway had every one of his pretty and precious Wu-isms all present and correct—delicate lace, sparkling embroideries, fluttery feathers galore. But it was how they were worked, and what they were worn with, that revealed new dimensions to what this young designer is capable of.

The shorts were tiny here, not much more than briefs; Wu calls them “sport shorts,” so if you ever had an aversion to gym class when younger, avoid, avoid, avoid thinking of this description. They were worn with everything from techno faille coats to beaded collar silk shirts, from nylon windcheaters to sequin-encrusted tops with extravagant peplums. (The leg-challenged will be glad to know that otherwise it was high-waist skinny pants, so relax.) In essence, that’s how he channeled that attitude from over the other side of the Atlantic: Take quite lavish and couture-like references and ease, and loosen, them up with graphic, sportier elements, pretty much all rendered in black, white and pink, as well as a very 2012 shades of cobalt, acid lime, and citrus yellow. (He was also aided in this by referring, through his prints, to the cartoon-like drawings of U.S. graffiti artist KAWS.)

Take, for instance, his new idea of evening, which featured an ivory silk tee with a digitalized petal print and a black gazar pencil skirt with a feather-edge peplum. (Get ready: Come spring, the peplum is going to be the new platform.) In the collision between chic and cool, it expressed—perhaps most emphatically out of everything he's done up until now—the playfulness Wu is capable of in his designs. Oh, and one other thing: Unlike her London sisters, his girl went for ankle-strapped stilettos. But you could, of course, add your own weighty army boots, should you prefer.


在夏天在伦敦，女孩被发现在城市的髋新制服，并不仅仅是一次hardscrabble Dalston新酷飞地，而是从未有强硬菲儿。这是整齐的量身定制的短裤，大家闺秀的结构肩皮包，和沉重的花边*战斗靴组成一看。 （听，这是我们谈论伦敦的夏天，还记得吗？）吴季刚，***的传播者，是非常精确的在他们的住宅区纽约文雅的紧身裙装的话，你会觉得，一百万英里的距离注册这种冲动，看超精心打扮的，然后它的方法，方式，但显然他，和他的好处。他的2012年春季跑道每一个他的珍贵和美丽的吴ISMS的所有现在和正确的细腻的蕾丝，波光粼粼的刺绣，嘉豪fluttery羽毛。但他们是如何工作的，和他们穿，这个年轻的设计师是能够发现新的层面。

短裤这里是微小的，而不是远远比内裤，吴称他​​们为“运动短裤，”所以，如果你曾经厌恶体育课年轻，避免，避免，避免这种描述的思想。他们穿的一切，从TECHNO罗缎大衣串珠领丝绸衬衫，尼龙风衣奢侈peplums缀满亮片的上衣。 （“腿的挑战将很高兴知道，否则它是高腰线瘦的裤子，所以放松）在本质上，如何他的渠道对大西洋彼岸的这种态度，：以相当阔气和时装，喜欢引用和易用性，并出现松动迹象，他们与图形，动感的元素，几乎所有呈现黑色，白色和粉红色，石灰，酸钴以及一个非常2012年的阴影，以及柑橘黄。 （他还资助指，通过他的版画，美国涂鸦艺术家KAWS的卡通图纸。）

举例说，他的新想法日晚，它的特点与数字化的花瓣打印和一根羽毛边缘peplum gazar黑色铅笔裙的象牙丝T恤。 （获取准备。来吧春天，在peplum是去新的*台）在潇洒和酷之间的碰撞，它表达的也许是最强调出他的做，直至现在，在嬉闹吴最多的一切是能够在他的设计。哦，和另一件事情：他的女孩与她的姐妹们，绑脚踝的高跟鞋去了。 ，当然，但是你可以添加自己的份量军靴，你应该喜欢。

Raf Simons离开了，Jil Sander女士回来了，招牌式的轮廓、招牌式的颜色，干净利落，实穿度极佳的一季，值得追逐的一季。

　　Jil Sander男人正在演变。他志于在形式上正经地定义他自己，塑造自己的外表。精修边幅，不向容易妥协，趨*完善。

　　生活在四度空间里，在流体星座中浮游。呓语和思考，总是在正确的地方在正确的时刻，总是得体。身体是办公室，衣服是营运总部；轻柔的脉动节奏，快速准确的直觉，无可挑剔的头脑。

　　追寻着同一个基调，此系列阐明了在一种可变式的*衡和创新比例的言喻。其精髓是量身定做的到位，如同一刀切开般干净利落。

　　形状是展现重力，使用方式给予高捻纱线的质量。具有极轻感的热带面料和非常立体的形象。

　　夹克和裤子经典结合了新天然纤维混合编织结构：高捻棉：丝与棉；无皱马海毛结合羊毛和丝绸；羊毛，马海毛和麻。

　　夹克的版型前窄后宽。袖子有如解剖轮廓的线条，牵引了一番自由的流动感。 Jil Sander的自在肩形。夹克从短版并贴身的剪裁，到外型立体的上衣、短外套和英伦式的休闲夹克。短裤，低裆，前折，带有夸张的运动风切割。裤脚稍短的裤子，从较厚重羊毛或热带羊毛和捻棉。简洁的府绸，领尖带扣的精致衬衫。或有短袖或有宽袖。缇花羊毛和棉质的针织品，深受到Blinky Palermo和Robert Mangold作品的启发。不规则的图形，随心所欲的抽象，暗喻一个新的秩序。

　　原始色彩的回音。红，黄和蓝：从迷人的群青色到深浅不一的墨色，Jil Sander招牌式的蓝，夜空蓝。黑，米色，象牙白。

经典蒙德里安图案一直是设计师们心头的好，它看起来清新明快，文艺又不失摩登气质。 彼埃·蒙德里安（Piet Cornelies Mondrian；1872年3月7日-1944年2月1日），荷兰画家，风格派运动幕后艺术家和非具象绘画的创始者之一，是几何抽象画派的先驱，以几何图形为绘画的基本元素。 1930年创作了画作，《红、黄、蓝的构成》，他用黑色线条将画布分割成几个大小不同的矩形，除了三原色之外再无其他色彩，巧妙的分割与组合使*面抽象成为一个有节奏的动感画面，该画作对后代的建筑、设计等影响很大。