开大腰的正确方法图

春天2012年RTW


Jason Wu吴季刚



照片：Marcio马德拉


by Mark Holgate

Over the summer in London, girls were spotted in the city’s hip new uniform, and not just in the newly cool enclave of once hardscrabble Dalston, but just as much in never-had-it-tough Mayfair. It was a look comprised of neat tailored shorts, ladylike structured shoulder purses, and heavy lace-up flat combat boots. (Listen, this is a London summer we’re talking about, remember?) Jason Wu, the princeling purveyor of sheath dresses that are very precise in their uptown New York urbanity, would, you’d think, be a million miles away from registering this impulse to look both super-dressed-up, then take it way, way down, but clearly he has, and to his benefit. His spring 2012 runway had every one of his pretty and precious Wu-isms all present and correct—delicate lace, sparkling embroideries, fluttery feathers galore. But it was how they were worked, and what they were worn with, that revealed new dimensions to what this young designer is capable of.

The shorts were tiny here, not much more than briefs; Wu calls them “sport shorts,” so if you ever had an aversion to gym class when younger, avoid, avoid, avoid thinking of this description. They were worn with everything from techno faille coats to beaded collar silk shirts, from nylon windcheaters to sequin-encrusted tops with extravagant peplums. (The leg-challenged will be glad to know that otherwise it was high-waist skinny pants, so relax.) In essence, that’s how he channeled that attitude from over the other side of the Atlantic: Take quite lavish and couture-like references and ease, and loosen, them up with graphic, sportier elements, pretty much all rendered in black, white and pink, as well as a very 2012 shades of cobalt, acid lime, and citrus yellow. (He was also aided in this by referring, through his prints, to the cartoon-like drawings of U.S. graffiti artist KAWS.)

Take, for instance, his new idea of evening, which featured an ivory silk tee with a digitalized petal print and a black gazar pencil skirt with a feather-edge peplum. (Get ready: Come spring, the peplum is going to be the new platform.) In the collision between chic and cool, it expressed—perhaps most emphatically out of everything he's done up until now—the playfulness Wu is capable of in his designs. Oh, and one other thing: Unlike her London sisters, his girl went for ankle-strapped stilettos. But you could, of course, add your own weighty army boots, should you prefer.


在夏天在伦敦，女孩被发现在城市的髋新制服，并不仅仅是一次hardscrabble Dalston新酷飞地，而是从未有强硬菲儿。这是整齐的量身定制的短裤，大家闺秀的结构肩皮包，和沉重的花边*战斗靴组成一看。 （听，这是我们谈论伦敦的夏天，还记得吗？）吴季刚，***的传播者，是非常精确的在他们的住宅区纽约文雅的紧身裙装的话，你会觉得，一百万英里的距离注册这种冲动，看超精心打扮的，然后它的方法，方式，但显然他，和他的好处。他的2012年春季跑道每一个他的珍贵和美丽的吴ISMS的所有现在和正确的细腻的蕾丝，波光粼粼的刺绣，嘉豪fluttery羽毛。但他们是如何工作的，和他们穿，这个年轻的设计师是能够发现新的层面。

短裤这里是微小的，而不是远远比内裤，吴称他​​们为“运动短裤，”所以，如果你曾经厌恶体育课年轻，避免，避免，避免这种描述的思想。他们穿的一切，从TECHNO罗缎大衣串珠领丝绸衬衫，尼龙风衣奢侈peplums缀满亮片的上衣。 （“腿的挑战将很高兴知道，否则它是高腰线瘦的裤子，所以放松）在本质上，如何他的渠道对大西洋彼岸的这种态度，：以相当阔气和时装，喜欢引用和易用性，并出现松动迹象，他们与图形，动感的元素，几乎所有呈现黑色，白色和粉红色，石灰，酸钴以及一个非常2012年的阴影，以及柑橘黄。 （他还资助指，通过他的版画，美国涂鸦艺术家KAWS的卡通图纸。）

举例说，他的新想法日晚，它的特点与数字化的花瓣打印和一根羽毛边缘peplum gazar黑色铅笔裙的象牙丝T恤。 （获取准备。来吧春天，在peplum是去新的*台）在潇洒和酷之间的碰撞，它表达的也许是最强调出他的做，直至现在，在嬉闹吴最多的一切是能够在他的设计。哦，和另一件事情：他的女孩与她的姐妹们，绑脚踝的高跟鞋去了。 ，当然，但是你可以添加自己的份量军靴，你应该喜欢。

仆街少女是由台北的“禁欲”(25岁)和台中的“Karren”(28岁)两名爱摄影的女孩组成。禁欲刚考完研究所，目前在台大语言中心进修；Karren则是台湾中山大学医学院毕业，不行医却扛起摄影机担任摄影师，拍摄作品还得过奖。禁欲表示，这游戏是在外国网站看到，觉得很好玩，就和姐姐开始试试看。Karren则表 扑街少女
示，拍完感觉很解压。
编辑本段行为艺术
　　两人分在台中及台北，用脸朝下趴着、全身打直的“倒头栽”姿势，拍下一系列kuso照片，台中景点包括知名的勤美诚品前，Karren不顾一旁人来人往，趴在阶梯上拍照，图说上写着“仆街少女带大家认识台中”，并介绍勤美诚品，Karren说：“拍这张照片的时候，路人在旁边偷笑，但我觉得开心就好。” 　　另外还有趴在台中市的邮筒上，Karren甚至感性呼吁，“现代人越来越少写信了，请大家多支持邮局系统，提笔写信给你们的亲人吧！”而禁欲则趴在台北捷运站阶梯上、高铁站内垃圾桶上，不仅身体呈现力与美，服装造型也整体搭配，幽默又充满艺术。 仆街少女组图(13张)
编辑本段网友看法
　　2人搞怪照片在网络上引起讨论，粉丝页不到3天已破万人按赞，有网友说，“我要搭公交车跟坐捷运，好想遇到仆街少女！”而仆街少女更红到香港，香港网友留言，“请你加油！我是香港人，也想多知道台湾，请你努力仆下去！” 　　报道称，这群仆街少女一系列的图片，让网友让惊呼狂笑直喊酷，图片的效果不仅充满人体结构的幽默，同时呈现人融入环境里的艺术感，相关图片迅速传播，甚至已分享到大陆，少女们对作品的暴红感到惊讶，已有业者邀请少女们到Party仆街，原是不雅字眼的名词，让他们“一仆成名天下知”。
编辑本段仆街
　　仆街(读音：Puk Kai)原本是广东话的常见俚语，字面意思是指仆倒街头，另也可指横死街头没人收尸。出麻烦时，可脱口而出“仆街”，有“糟榚”的意思；骂人时意思*似“去死啦”。 　　在1990年代，香港把仆街按照殖民地时代的粤拼方法，故意读成Puk Kai ，简称PK。其中「街」的正确粤拼应是Gai，但在殖民地年代，英国人经常把粤语K音经常与G音混合使用，比如「九（Gau)龙」的英译是 Kowloon, 而非Gowloon。 　　仆街一词及Puk Kai拼写从香港电影流入闽南语中，用法相似。